This Famous Peruvian Dish Actually Comes From Chinese Immigrants

This week, in honor of Hispanic Heritage Month, food writer Carlos Olaechea traces the origins of Chinese-Peruvian cuisine and shares his recipe for lomo saltado.

Growing up in Miami, my dad raised me with the idea that almost anything available in this country had its superior Peruvian equivalent. If I wanted to decorate a tree and sing “Jingle Bells” at Christmas, he’d steer me toward building an elaborate nativity scene and caroling songs about feeding baby Jesus sweet soup. Instead of Bagel Bites and Carvel ice cream cake for my birthday, he’d order platters of triple sandwiches and thickly frosted yellow cake concealing generous layers of manjar blanco (what Peruvians call dulce de leche). And any time we wanted Chinese food, we’d always end up having chifa.