You Can't Visit Mexico City Without Going to This Neighborhood

For many visitors to Mexico City, Coyoacán is mostly known as the neighborhood where the Frida Kahlo museum is located. In fact, it’s about all I knew as well—that is, until I made the area my home last December. Though it’s just a few miles south of the bustling capital’s historic center, Coyoacán—which was the headquarters of Hernán Cortés during the Spanish conquest and only became an official borough of the city in 1928—feels like another world altogether.

Today, it’s a quiet, family-friendly area with windy cobblestoned streets, beautiful centuries-old architecture color-blocked in all shades of the rainbow, and two main plazas that are always buzzing with vendors, street performers, young couples strolling hand-in-hand, kids squealing, and—on most weekends—weddings at the 16th-century Parish of San Juan Bautista. (It’s also where you’ll find my favorite tamales in town.)